Winterizing made easy!

 
Yes, it’s that time of the year again that we need to talk about winterizing.  Over the years, we have helped so many campers tackle this process on their own.  We hope this list of steps will help you better understand your water system and its requirement for a peaceful winter.  Please find below the step-by-step directions to winterize your RV and guarantee no surprises in the spring.  Good luck!
 

Step 1:  Open up your water tank drain

If you used your fresh water tank this year and have some left, it will need to be drained.  The drain is often located under the trailer.  It could be a valve or simply a screw-on cap.  For some trailers, some manufacturers have installed the drain valve on the inside of the trailer by the water tank.
 

Step 2:  Opening up your low point drains. 

While you’re under the trailer, you may as well open up your low point drains.  As a rule, they are color coded, blue for cold and red for hot.  They are normally located on the edge of the trailer and will have some screw on caps (or valves).  For the water to drain, you’ll need to open up the taps.  Of course, at this point the water pump should be off.  The purpose of the low point drains is to let the water out of the system by gravity.  Please note there could be some variances as some manufacturers are installing ball valves on the outside or even on the inside.  You’ll have to investigate.
 

Step 3:  Emptying your water heater.  

This is one step that is often missed and will cost you a pretty penny in the spring.  To perform this step, you should make sure the pump is off and that you have performed step 2.  The taps are still open so the water system is no longer under pressure.  Only then it is safe to remove the plug or the anode rod to let it drain.  Some people will open the pressure valve to release the pressure built up in the water heater but it is not necessary if you followed the second step properly.  Opening up the pressure valve may result in getting some dirt or sand stuck in it allowing it to leak the following season.  At this point you may have realized the drain is not located right at the bottom of the water heater and there is still a bit of water left in it.  Don’t worry, the water left will cause no harm as there is plenty of room for expansion.  It might also be a good time to inspect your plug or anode rod.  If your water heater is made by Suburban, you’ll have an anode rod.  Depending on the quality of the water used, this rod might need replacement.  Stop by our parts store with a picture and we’ll let you know if you’ll need a new one in the spring.
 

Step 4:  Reversing your water heater valves. 

This task is to prevent antifreeze from getting into your water heater, an expensive mistake and a pain to clean in the spring.  First, you’ll need to locate your water heater on the inside of the trailer.  It might be hidden and you will most likely have to remove a panel to get to it.  Once you’ve gotten to the back of the water heater, you will see 1, 2 or 3 ball valves.  Basically, whatever number of valves you have, they will all have to be reversed.  It’s a pretty simple system really.  Cold water goes in at the bottom, hot water comes out at the top.  Blue pipe going in, red pipe coming out. 
The 1 valve system will be located on the bottom (often blue) pipe at a “T” connection. Turning it will prevent the water to flow inside your water heater at the bottom and redirect the flow towards the pipe coming out at the top of the water heater through a little pipe.  This system uses a one-way check valve at the top allowing the heated water to exit only and preventing the water to enter from the top. 
The 2-valve system is probably the most common one.  One “T” valve at the bottom and another “T” valve at the top.  Both of those valves are located to bridge the flow and prevent any antifreeze from entering the water heater at the bottom or the top.  There is no one way check valve installed at the top.  Normally in winter mode, the valves are positioned vertically and in summer mode they are positioned horizontally.  There are a few variances to the 2-valve system.  If you’re not sure, take a picture and stop by, we’ll advise you.
 Last, the 3-valve system.  This system uses an on/off ball valve.  The location of those valves is passed that little pipe that goes from cold to hot.  That little pipe also has an on/off valve.  Basically, on this system, you are stopping the flow into the water heater through the bottom valve and from the water heater through the top valve.  In winter mode you’ll need to open up the valve on the little pipe and close the top and bottom valves so the antifreeze can flow through.  I know this sounds more complicated that it is, but even a newbie can perform this task.  The different valve systems have to be rotated to the bypass position or winter mode.  They will all have to be switched back in the spring for summer mode after rinsing the system.  Some valves will only rotate ¼ turn, some will require several turns, different valves, different ways to change the flow.  No matter what, you are required to go all the way. 
 
Please note for trailers that are equipped with an “on demand” water heater, the only step require is once the trailer is fully winterized, you should open the pressure valve slowly until you see some antifreeze coming out.  For the Truma system, a little tray needs to be emptied.  We will strongly recommend you follow the hot water system manufacturer’s winterizing procedures for the “on demand” system as well as the Truma system as we see new systems, brands and improvements being introduce every year in our industry
 

 Step 5:  Emptying the water from all lines.

Before we fill up the water system with antifreeze, we like to make sure all lines are free from water.  Mixing antifreeze with water reduces the strength and can cause freezing, just what we are trying to prevent.  So this extra step will require an air compressor and a blow out plug.  There are 2 types of blow out plugs.  One has a tire valve on it and the other an air hose male end.  The tire valve requires two people to make this task easier.  The air hose male connection allows one person to do it alone as long as you can change the PSI output of your air compressor.  The idea is not to get over 50 PSI of air pressure in the system.  Anything over that can damage water lines or a valve.   So let’s start with the 2-person team.  One person will be outside with an air inflator gauge connected to the blow out plug and the other will be on the inside opening all the taps.  Starting with the furthest water tap from where the water comes into the trailer (start with the cold lines, then the hot), open the tap and get your team mate to press the air inflator until you notice there is no more water coming out, only air.  Move on to the next tap, toilet, shower and eventually the outside shower or spray port.  Don’t forget the outside kitchen if you have one.  If you want to minimize the chances of damaging the water system, open the next tap before closing one, that way there will be no pressure built-up.  Your team mate should also keep an eye on the gauge to make sure it doesn’t get over the 50 PSI.  Before going outside to finish with the outside shower or outside kitchen, inform your team mate to stop blowing air for a minute.  If you are doing it on your own, set your PSI output on your compressor to 50 PSI.  Connect the quick connect to the blow out plug and get inside your trailer to perform the same inside task as the previous method describe above.
 

Step 6:  Pumping the antifreeze into the lines. 

Here we are towards the end of the job.  Some campers will rely only on blowing the water lines with air alone but here at Vos, we just don’t want to take any chances.  56 years in business, several hundred winterizing every year, we simply can’t afford to be fixing water lines in the spring so we go that extra step and guarantee our work.  For the sake of an extra few dollars, that’s how we do it on our own personal RV’s.  For this step, you’ll need to locate the water pump.  We don’t put antifreeze in the water tank because you just can’t get it all out in the spring when it’s time to replace it with water.  Instead, we go directly to the pump and install a winterizing pump conversion kit.  This kit consists of a “T” valve with a flexible hose.  Once installed, all you need to do is rotate the valve handle, put the flexible pipe into the jug of antifreeze and you’re done.  Turn on the pump, and just like when you were blowing the water from the lines using the air compressor, open one tap at the time starting with the furthest making your way closer to the pump.  Cold first and then hot. You’ll have to change the gallon of antifreeze as the first one will empty quickly.  When you see antifreeze coming out, it’s safe to turn off the tap.  Special attention to the toilet as the valve really needs to be filled up and requires a bit of antifreeze to do so.  Don’t forget to do the outside shower and kitchen.  After all taps are done, you’ll need to pour antifreeze into the P traps.  Be generous with the shower drain as a repair would be costly because of the hard accessibility.  Also make sure there is a bit in the toilet as it will keep the seal lubricated.  If you didn’t used a compressor to blow the lines, you’ll need to perform this extra step.   You’ll need to go outside where you connect your fresh water hose.  Remove the screen filter with a small flat screwdriver and push on the center of it opening that check valve to allow antifreeze to come out from the water system.  Here is a small tip to prevent you from getting wet: go open the kitchen tap to take the pressure off first.  That way, you won’t be wearing a liter of antifreeze!
 

  STEP 7:  Winterizing the accessories.

Accessories or appliances like an ice maker on your fridge, a washing machine, a dishwasher or the more common accessory, your black tank flush also needs to be winterized.  They will need to be drained and filled up with antifreeze in accordance to the manufacturer’s winterizing process.  As for the black tank flush, all it really need is to make sure you push the water out of the line by using the blowout plug on the outside and forcing a bit of air through it to empty any water that may sit in the pipe.  That’s pretty much all you can do to your black tank flush.  It doesn’t require any antifreeze as this system is independent of your water system.
 

Step 8:   Rewards yourself

You did it like a boss!  Before I congratulate you, I feel the need to mention all holding tanks, grey and black, should be emptied for the winter.  You should also make sure there is a bit of antifreeze at the grey and black gate valves.  The antifreeze has a lubricant in it that will help in prolonging the life of those valves.
 
Last but not the least, make sure the gas is off for the winter.  Inspect all the caulking especially on the roof.  Make sure wild life will not get into your RV during the winter by blocking any entry points.  The fridge vent, water heater vent and furnace vent should be blocked off.  If you don’t have a sealed detachable power cord, you might want to add a stainless-steel pots and pans scrubber in the hatch.  Install Dry-z-air to remove excess moisture in your RV over the winter and leave the fridge and freezer doors open to prevent mold.  For peace of mind, you could always buy an RV cover to protect your investment.  We don’t recommend using a tarp as it will trap the humidity and condensation, leading to mold.  You’ll find everything you need in our parts store to prepare your unit for a peaceful hibernation.  If winterizing scares you., replace step 1 with “hitch the trailer up” and step 2 with “drive to Vos Trailers.” 
Easy as pie!